Sceneries

July14-18, 2024

After visiting Bydgoszcz and Warsaw, my path leads me mainly through rural areas, which opens up the beauty of the landscape in this part of Poland. Wide fields, mainly grain and corn cultivation, as well as lushly flowering fallow meadows are repeatedly interrupted by bushy natural hedges and mixed forest sections, which bring welcome cooling in the persistent heat with temperatures up to 38° C.

Stork nests in the villages on telegraph masts and abandoned funnels, usually occupied by three to four young storks, their parents on wet pastures and behind the tractors in search of food, are omnipresent. I even see the shy black storks living in the forest repeatedly, once even six together.

Next to some new buildings of comfortable homes that are difficult to fit into the rural surroundings, there are always pretty traditional wooden cottages, usually surrounded by magnificent flower bushes. And wayside crosses adorned with colourful plastic flowers always point to the deep religiousness of the Polish faithful.

The bright blue sky dotted with white cotton wool clouds is reflected in small lakes and village ponds, leisurely flowing streams and rivers dammed with weirs. The invitation to take a refreshing dip on small natural beaches, which many families take up during the current holiday season, is something I can’t resist from time to time.

Scenic highlights include the river and marshland landscape of the Biebrzánski nature reserve, where I find a wonderful campsite with a bathing beach near Wroceń, and the surprisingly hilly, almost mountainous region east of Suwałki, which is sometimes reminiscent of the Eifel. I deliberately cycle through this area at a leisurely pace, and not just because of the constant ups and downs or the energy-sapping deep gravel tracks with washboard profile.

I reach the Polish-Lithuanian border punctually in the middle of the day on the 14th day of my journey and ninth day of cycling, realising that the clock in Lithuania is already an hour ahead and that the euro has been the currency here for nine years.

On the evening of my first day in Lithuania, I stay at the Mercure Hotel and enjoy the sunset from the comfort of my room.