Estonia 2026

A reunion with friends

Our arrival in Tallinn got off to a flying start with an absolute highlight:
an invitation to the 40th birthday party of Andres, Marit’s husband and son-in-law of Aiki and Hannes, my friends from the Midsummer’s Eve celebrations in Latvia in 2009 and 2010; and just like two years ago, we were to celebrate another reunion in Otepää this time too – the second highlight!

a festive setting
prominent musical enterainment
summery atmosphere beneath pine trees

But before that, the route had a few unexpectedly tough challenges in store for us: a strong east-north-easterly wind blowing hard in our faces, 20 km of sandy, bumpy forest track through the national park, and 9 km of what was effectively an impassable stretch, riddled with puddles, mud and quagmire, which almost sapped the last of our strength.

sandy, bumpy forest track …
… with obstacles
actually impassable, but …
… there‘s no alternative
That was still the easier part.

Nevertheless, we enjoy the sights of the two waterfalls, Jägala and Kalaste, as well as the cliffs off Sillamäe. But it is only a rainy day of rest in Sillamäe, at the end of the Estonian Baltic coast along our route, that brings us the much-needed rest.

Jägala waterfall
Jägala waterfall
Kalaste waterfall
cliffs close to Sillamäe

As we continue our journey, we reach the picturesque shores of Lake Peipus, Europe’s fourth-largest inland lake, home to the beautiful Kauksi Telkimisala forest campsite. But then comes a truly terrifying moment in Kääpa, when, on the outskirts of the village, Astrid encounters a brown bear that follows her at close quarters, snarling loudly, and drives her – her eyes wide with horror – uphill at an unprecedented speed.

forest camp site Kauksi Telkimisala
shore of Lake Peipus

Taking a shortcut from our originally planned route, we leave Lake Peipus earlier than intended so as not to miss our reunion with our friends from Tallinn at their summer cottage in Otepää at the weekend, whilst still having enough time to visit the beautiful city of Tartu – even though our visit is cut short by two hours of heavy rain.

Tartu town hall
pinned down by heavy rain
ruins of Tartu Dom
Tartu university, founded 1632
a monument that fits the rain
at Tartu Dom
view over Tartu
view from Tartu Dom

After an unexpectedly gruelling 45 km, we arrive at our friends’ place in Otepää just in time to celebrate Astrid’s birthday with them.

start in Tartu …
feudal bicycle path out of Tartu
a joyful reunion …
Happy birthday …
… or rather stay?
dirt road
… and a delicious BBQ
… dear Astrid!

After two wonderful days with Aiki and Hannes, Marit and Andres, along with their cute little daughters Agnes Hiie and Säde Lilian, it’s particularly hard for us to say goodbye. But the road is calling …

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